Space-age strangeness and soft materials graced this Maison Marigela by John Galliano collection. This time around individual pieces and sets stood out, giving it a wearability and digestibility that didn't happen when the clothes were piled on and on like previous collections under Galliano. Rather, Galliano was much more about the street, pushing forward clothes that people can actually throw on and instantly look incredible in, with insanely amazing makeup and accessories, of course. These looks are ever more enticing, without being too boring. It's much more inviting to put these specific pieces together, rather than totally destroying them and wrapping them around your body in a fabulous way. There is of course the regular intense mixing of garments that shouldn't belong together, yet they do. New inventions in color combinations made everything cutting-edge and fresh, making it unlike any other show in Paris. A delicate black lace dress with detailed embroidery paired with glove-like space boots was one example of the post-modern mix that created something new. Also, an ensemble of a near-black plaid trench coat dress belted with a patent leather waist belt, black leather platform pilgrim boots, plastic bracelets over the jacket, and a brown leather messenger bag was a personal favorite look. Perhaps the story behind the look is that she's a futuristic business woman with a bit of a kooky side but is still professional and intimidating when she needs to be. Whatever the case may be, it was exceptional. The incredible technique of Galliano for Marigela has been posted on this website more than once, but there is little to complain about. Galliano is a mastermind of fashion and always has been. This was certainly justifying that point. So sorry, haters of Galliano for Maison Margiela (if there is still any of you left) but this is Fashion with a capital F!
In uncertain times within the fashion world, Marc Jacobs has concocted a business strategy that combines his old diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, into his main brand to make the vision available to more customers. The brand has been going through with this plan for two years now, and can be seen on the runway with the mix of $200 denim jackets paired over $2,000 embroidered dresses and nearly everything in between. For example, in the Fall 2016 collection, there was layering of cheaper denim jackets over sequined bell-shaped skirts that were more than triple the price of the jacket. This time around for Spring, Marc Jacobs built up a massive rave filled with thousands of soft lights. When it comes to raves, an individual goes to forget something, escape reality, and enjoy the surreal, by usual use of hallucinogenic drugs. It makes sense then, to have vibrant colors smeared into Marie Antoinette-esque fabricated gowns that were slashed short to reveal sky-high platform boots. There was also 1990s inspired shimmery prints on tailored pants and jackets in powder blue, lilac, and soft pinks. A celebration of youth sub-cultures of today as well as yesterday. Blitz Kids, Lolita, grunge, and glam rock all danced around as inspirations for the anti-subtle looks that stopped through the wide and ethereal set. Once dissected into individual garments, the clothes themselves carry on the theme of showy Americana that Marc Jacobs has been playing with in these past few years. In fact, some of the pieces are actual repeats of pieces that came a season or even a year before it, just in different fabric or color to match with the current collection. This is something new in fashion. Rather than chucking out everything that was done before in a previous collection and completely restarting, some staple pieces are constantly available but made new again with the new runway collection, making them appear fresh and have a longer shelf life at the same time. Psychedelic and fun twists and turns finished off a New York Fashion Week that is otherwise tragically boring and commercial without Marc Jacobs.
