Sarah Burton's Fall/Winter 2015 presentation for Alexander McQueen brought back the romance. For a microsecond, I thought this collection would be very ecclesiastical, but it fact, it was a bit deeper than that. Frizzy hairdos, layered clothes and white, wet eyes brought a theme to a new high. The hair selection actually evoked McQueen's Spring/Summer 2007 "Sarabande" and Fall/Winter 2008 "The Girl Who Lived in a Tree" collections. With all that's going around with Alexander McQueen, the V&A exhibition of Savage Beauty, SHOWstudio.com's projects highlighting McQueen's early years in London as well as previously unseen footage of the late designer, and two books published already this year on McQueen, interest seems to be at a high. This is reason enough for the brand today to present something that calls back Lee McQueen's work as well as move it forward to the future. Thus, this show was presented in the Conciergerie in Paris, where McQueen hosted his "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious" show during the Fall/Winter 2002 collection. As it happens, this venue is also the place where Marie Antoinette was held in jail before her public execution on the guillotine in 1793. So there's the morbidity of McQueen. But what about the other things? There was the strong woman, wrapped in structured jackets of etched leather and printed softer fabrics. She sashayed down the aisle in square toed heels and wore a high collar that held her head high and straight.There were beautifully cut ruffles on dresses and harness-like lace across chests and necks. Similar to last season, Sarah Burton seems to play with the tension of constriction and loose flow, other examples including belted over coats and dresses. I particularly like Look 22, with a deep red fur collar contrasting a black and even deeper green printed coat fraying at the hemline. This specific look evokes Lee McQueen's Fall/Winter 1996 "Dante", Fall/Winter 1997 "It's a Jungle Out There", and Fall/Winter 1998 "Joan" collections. Overall, a strong and beautiful collection with incredible pieces that express enticing ideas for the future of the Alexander McQueen brand without forgetting it's incredible past.
Photo Credits: Style.com
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