Sarah Burton said that she wanted a fresh start for
Alexander McQueen with this show and that idea was clearly palpable. When the
first few looks emerged, I sensed a soft, urban influence over expert and
classic tailoring. Double breasted white blazers were splashed with bright
blues and yellows in an abstract, graffiti way. Those bright blues and yellows
changed to blacks and reds. One particular garment caught my eye: the
interestingly cut white blazer that was sliced at the bottom. It looked like
two different blazers, still attached to each other by red silk. I like the
large belt over the top of the blazer motif. The pairing seems constricting but
also boasting, in a way. In some looks, the trousers seemed notably baggy.
Other pants were tailored into slim cuts. Shorts were also in the mix, paired
with long and thin color-blocked socks that stopped at the knee. Throughout the
progression of the show, mainly white ensembles morphed into contrasting blacks
and checkered prints. One particular look that viewers really seemed to love was
the grey double breasted suit with the contrasting houndstooth print on the lapel
and around the button fastenings. Overall, I loved the elements of mixing pristine
English-looking suits with dark streetwear. Patent black leather crossed over large
coats in black and red. Perhaps it’s my obsession with punk, but I couldn’t help
but think of those rebels in the 1980s that stood outside, perhaps smoking a cigarette
and discussing rebellious things. Alexander McQueen’s latest menswear show certainly
has something that has never been seen in McQueen menswear. Simplicity, perhaps.
I think it’s a lot less intricate and detail orientated than last year’s collection.
There wasn’t any lace or lace printing, which I thought was a McQueen menswear signature. Regardless, I think Sarah Burton achieved to what she wanted to achieve. A clean slate, something new, something fresh.
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