John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear Review

     The soft whites and grays at John Varvatos' Spring/Summer 2015 presentation were refreshing and alluring. The historical cuts on those gray jackets were just my style. Each look was seemingly paired with a soft scarf wrapped easily under the outerwear. And there weren’t just gray shapely jackets, but dark and timeless blazers, waistcoats, cardigans, and even a white moto jacket with multiple zippers. The looks were modern yet aged, feminine yet masculine, and timeless yet avant-garde. Totally full of romance. The wilted grayscale flower pins graced lapels and breasts like they were boutonnieres. I think John Varvatos is very interesting in the fact that he understands menswear and morphs it into whatever he likes. I mean to say that he understands that not every man dresses the same. He can create things that are feminine on a man, without going overboard. His clothes still contain a strong element of masculinity. That blend in clothing entices me. I believe that idea of blending is reflected in my personal style. All of the clothes were in grayscale, with a few exceptions of faded roses and browns. It seems ethereal, almost like a fairytale. All of the pieces, including the sunglasses and bags are undoubtedly sellable. Bottom line: John Varvatos is still and has always been an incredible rock star for menswear.

 

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear Review

     Sarah Burton said that she wanted a fresh start for Alexander McQueen with this show and that idea was clearly palpable. When the first few looks emerged, I sensed a soft, urban influence over expert and classic tailoring. Double breasted white blazers were splashed with bright blues and yellows in an abstract, graffiti way. Those bright blues and yellows changed to blacks and reds. One particular garment caught my eye: the interestingly cut white blazer that was sliced at the bottom. It looked like two different blazers, still attached to each other by red silk. I like the large belt over the top of the blazer motif. The pairing seems constricting but also boasting, in a way. In some looks, the trousers seemed notably baggy. Other pants were tailored into slim cuts. Shorts were also in the mix, paired with long and thin color-blocked socks that stopped at the knee. Throughout the progression of the show, mainly white ensembles morphed into contrasting blacks and checkered prints. One particular look that viewers really seemed to love was the grey double breasted suit with the contrasting houndstooth print on the lapel and around the button fastenings. Overall, I loved the elements of mixing pristine English-looking suits with dark streetwear. Patent black leather crossed over large coats in black and red. Perhaps it’s my obsession with punk, but I couldn’t help but think of those rebels in the 1980s that stood outside, perhaps smoking a cigarette and discussing rebellious things. Alexander McQueen’s latest menswear show certainly has something that has never been seen in McQueen menswear. Simplicity, perhaps. I think it’s a lot less intricate and detail orientated than last year’s collection. There wasn’t any lace or lace printing, which I thought was a McQueen menswear signature. Regardless, I think Sarah Burton achieved to what she wanted to achieve. A clean slate, something new, something fresh.

Mugler Resort 2015 Review

     David Koma has taken over as Creative Director at the House of Mugler, and this latest Resort collection is his first achievement. How glad am I to see a new Mugler collection? Elated. Ever since Nicola Formichetti left the House of Mugler the brand was in a dry spell.  Now, with Koma in charge, Mugler has something new to show. The lookbook for the Resort 2014 collection was shot in understated black and white as well as soft color. I loved this concept because the black and white shots seem to highlight the silhouette, structure, and cut of each new garment. The harness-like straps on tailored blazers, skirts, and tops really makes this collection cutting-edge. Knee length sheath dresses showed color in large graphic prints and straps. Each garment is structural, with hardware and soft femininity working it's way in. The gowns in the last few looks are simply stunning, with classic black fabric and sophisticated embellishments. Examples include clear sequins and straps. David Koma has certainly simplified the "New Mugler Woman", a stark contrast from the original and the revamped Nicola Formichetti versions. The original Thierry Mugler created looks that were sexy, futuristic, and extremely brash. The revamped Formichetti version modernized the Mugler woman into the twenty-first century (with the help of Lady Gaga, no less). Now, without looking too much into the  past, David Koma has completely redefined the Mugler woman, giving her simplistic edginess and beauty. Koma doesn't want to expell the idea of Mugler past at all, actually Style.com says that Koma's desire to be a designer started when he would look at his mother's old fashion magazines and see Thierry Mugler's designs on gorgeous women.  In fact, David Koma wanted this collection to be a starting point to the future of the House of Mugler, these garments a template for the future.